Introduction: Home Gym / Calisthenics Gym

My son convinced me to do a 1-year challenge. Aft some research, He found Bodyweight Fitness (BWF) happening Reddit. The support materials and videos are awful. Uncomparable of the great things about BWF is that it does not require weights. However, it does require a place to do few exercises. I was surprised that I could not find a simple plan to build a gymnasium for these exercises. Thusly we decided to make one!

My goals in building this gymnasium were:

- Low-priced (I went through several designs and kept simplifying them. Eight 2x4s and two 3 foot 1" ramble iron pipes along with fasteners are every last you need)

- Compact (my wife permitted me to hive away our bedroom. We preceptor't have a lot of space)

- Pleasing to build and easy to manipulation!

The unconditioned build time was about 3 hours. (Don't let wholly the steps fool you. The build was easy!)

P.S. If you want to check up on our uncomparable year gainsay we have a website and blog that will beryllium updated passim the year present. If you want to look more into BWF and the Recommended Routine we are doing it's here. Cheers!

Gradation 1: Buy Your Supplies

Eight (8) 2 x 4 x 8 ft.

Two (2) 36" plaster cast Fe pipes.

Fasteners (I put-upon 3" woods screws and 3.5" long 1/4" bolts. You Don't need to use the bolts if you want to save money. Just add a few more screws!)

Cardinal (12) 3.5" longitudinal 1/4" bolts and 12 interlock nuts. 24 1/4" washers (we used slightly oversized washers).

Step 2: Understand the Measurements and Mark the Sir Henry Joseph Wood

This diagram shows all the measurements. The photo is other reference (since I'm not a great artist).

Step 3: Thinned the Wood

I shorten all the wood at the same time. Lay information technology out first to make a point all the pieces fit. I ended up with some dispute which I used to suspender the corners (see the "details" section - final step)

Step 4: Measure Kettle of fish Placement and Cut Holes for Souse Bar

After about research and measuring my grip breadth, I definite that 19" wide dip parallel bars (on center) were ideal for me. The WWW says anything betwixt 18" and 22" works.

I utilised a 1.5" trap saw.

I used scrap 1/4" plyboard to hold the two boards jointly so the holes matched for both sides.

We're cutting only fractional of a hole in each side of the control panel thusly the pipe rests in it. By temporarily holding them together, you can make a point the holes align on some pieces of Sir Henry Wood.

Step 5: Cut Hole for Pull Up Bar

I followed the same procedure as I did for the magnetic dip bar.

I precious the half hole to start 3/4" from the edge so I marked the center of the hole at 1.5" from the edge of the board.

Step 6: Move Whol the Wood to Your Build Website

I waited until the married woman was out shopping. This is one box of our bedroom :-)

Step 7: Shape the Front and Back Sides First

I pre-drilled all the holes using a counter sink scra to avoid the wood cracking.

I started at the bottom with the 30" pieces. Then we put the 33" pieces at the top. Look at the flic for details.

Pace 8: Add the Feet

This is a two person chore. We added the 42" feet to both sides. The feet tie the in advance and back together.

Step 9: Add the Dip Measure/row Bar Holders

We measured 32" from the base wood (33.5" from the floor) to the bottom of the 2x4. You put up pick the to you think is best. We did use a level for this step. IT's not 100% necessary, but if you have access to incomparable, it makes information technology a trifle easier. If not, just make a point your measurements from the floor are precise.

This whole tone (and the entire build) solely takes ii people. My dad heard my son and I having fun, so he came to join USA :-)

Step 10: Add Pull-in Bar Weaponry

We followed a similar procedure every bit the dip bar supports. However, you just align these with the top of your vertical sides. We used a level once again to assure our pull-leading bar would be perfectly level.

Step 11: Admire Your Work

This shows the location of the pull-up block.

Step 12: Try Out Your Dip Bar

It works!

Mistreat 13: Try Out the Inverted Row

IT works too!!

Step 14: A Few of the Build Inside information...

Picture unrivalled shows Maine pre-drilling so the wood does not split.

Picture deuce and three show the bolts. We lay out one gobble up through all star connection. Over again, it's not necessary but a nice point.

Picture four shows 1/4" plywood scrap used for end caps so the chin-up barricade can't slide out.

Picture five shows the gain of the 45 degree corner supports on the foundation. We used the scrap wood for these. It's not necessary but it did make the gym a bit more than stable.

Painting six shows the original unpolished sketch.

Step 15: UPDATE: 3.5 Geezerhood Later - Still Going Strong (and a couple of Upgrades)

1) I added (1) 2x4 to each vertical section (a amount of four 2x4s). This gain stiffened the gym considerably.

2) I added rings because the Regular Routine works - I've made progress :-)

3) We moved so I had to cut the gymnasium into deuce parts to get onto out of my bedroom. If you search carefully in that picture you terminate see where I "spliced" it back together. I used bolts for these reinforcements and drilled the holes prior to cutting it into two sections (this ensured everything bordered-up).

Unlike the Norditrack in our basement, this gym gets used (actually 3x per calendar week). IT still works great - I really love it.

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